My motor

Received my motor today. It's a Siemens liquid cooled 42hp (90hp peak) 3 phase motor. Part No: 1PV5133-4WS20 W11

215 - 380 Volt, 282 Amp RMS (400 peak)
4 pole, 3 Phase AC Induction
67 Kw peak (33 Kw continuous)
3500 - 9700 (13,000 Max) RPM
Weight: 178 lbs

Used on the EV Ford Ranger

The backside. The motor shaft is hollow. The EV Ford Ranger had the left side axle shaft shaft running though this hollow motor shaft. The bearings in the motor have barely any friction, it spins so easy.

This is a picture of the motor with the front cover removed. Bottom right shows the water cooling channel.

Hall effect speed feedback sensor

The tone ring and hall effect sensors

Bearing upgrade

This pic shows the tools I used to replace the bearings in the motor. The old open style bearing is shown at the base of the rotor, the new sealed bearing is installed on the motor shaft.

Why did I need to replace the bearings?
The motor's bearings were lubricated and cooled with an oiling system integral with the planetary gear box on the Ford Ranger. Oil was supplied by flooding the hollow shaft, little holes in the shaft would drip oil into the bearing race. The bearings must be replaced with sealed, lubricated for life bearings, since I do not have an oiling system.

The mechanical limit of the sealed bearing is 11,000 RPM. The thermal limit of the sealed bearing is 70 Deg C, this coresponds to a steady state speed of 17,000 RPM. The original planetary gear box with helical gears would put a large thrust load on the bearings. Since I now have a splined shaft, the bearings will have virtually zero thrust and zero radial loading, they should be fine without the need for external lubrication and cooling. Thanks to Russ Sciville from across the pond for noticing these bearings needed to upgraded.

Motor side of my coupling

After weeks of consideration, I determined the best way of interfacing with the motors output gear is with a taper lock. The taper lock is rated to handle 1160lbft of torque. I will likely attach an adapter to the face of the taperlock and bolt it on using the 9 allen bolts.

here is a closeup of the motor shaft

Transmission side of the coupling

This is the clutch disc inside the transmission. I plan to drill the 12-hole hole pattern from the rotoflex coupling into the clutch disc. The rigid coupler is easier to build than my rotoflex idea, but since there is no flex, everything needs to be very precise.

Completed coupler - transmission side

The non-essential parts of the clutch disc were removed. 3 dowel pins locate the cltuch disc to the coupler.

Completed coupler - motor side

3 dowel pins locate the taperlock fitting to the coupling. Six bolts clamp the assembly together.

Taking measurements to make Adapter Plate

The transmission and motor were mounted in a CNC. All dowel pins, shaft centerlines, and bolt holes were located using a dial indicator mounted to the spindle head.

Bell housing adapter and motor coupling

Three dowel pins were machined into the bell housing adapter and match the existing dowel pins on the transmisison. 7 bolts will attach the plate to the transmission. The adapter plate was made from 3/4" aluminum plate. 2 dowel pins, and a centering ring locate the plate to the centerline of the motor shaft. The plate is bolted to the motor using 14 counter bored allen bolts.

Bell housing adapter - Just Married

Another completed milestone!

Motor and Tranny installed

Motor mount bar

Motor mount bar. I built a second motor mount using solid rubber mounts, the liquid filled VW mounts ruptured and the secret goo came out.

Clocked motor to make room for Li Batteries

I trimmed the adapter plate, and rotated the motor 90 degrees so the junction box and coolant fittings are now on the side.

My Transmission

Today I bought a 5 speed manual transmission for $600 bucks, ouch! Hopeuflly I can sell my Automatic tranny and break even. I also found out I need different axles and transmision mounts. The 5 speed manual is much smaller than the automatic, my existing half shafts are not long enough.

The manual transmission will probably be left in 2nd gear the entire time. Once the electric motor is above 3500 rpm (max torque), the motor is constant horsepower up to 14000 rpm. In this constant horsepower range, there is only a slight advantage to selecting a higher gear. A higher gear would be quieter, and a lower gear would accelerate faster from a stop. Since I am limited to selecting two gears with the automatic shift linkage, I will wait till it is running to decide which is more useful; 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd.